Desert adventures in California
I wrote about a trip to America way back in 2015 but on that occasion we headed up the California coast and into Yosemite. One of my first trips with my new camera would be another to this part of the world, but instead of revisiting those same spots, wonderful though they were, we decided to head for the desert. In hindsight, which of course is 20:20, this might not have been our smartest move with our trip being in the height of summer for a dear friend’s wedding in LA first, but we stuck to our guns and were rewarded in surprising ways.
Before we get into the desert though, we had a day or two to explore our immediate surroundings around Marina del Ray in Los Angeles before the wedding and between catch ups with friends. Our first stop was the unassuming Burton Chace Park, from where we had a view over the wider marina area and could see one or two distant California Sea Lions lounging on the backs of boats. There were a few butterflies slitting around the Agapanthus but I thought it imprudent to disturb a class taking place to get photos so instead, I focused quite literally on the squirrels. These were a species I’d not met before though fairly ubiquitous in the LA area from what I’ve read. The Eastern Fox Squirrel, Sciurus niger, which are larger and more richly coloured than the Grey Squirrels we are familiar with but seem to have a similar cheekiness about them.

Having stopped for a brief refreshment, our next point of call was just down the road at the Ballona Wetlands where we would walk a short trail. We had some fleeting views of pretty red House Finches here but most movement was on the ground and the result of scuttling lizards which appeared to be every few feet. We saw a couple of Western Fence Lizards which we had come across on our previous visit with dark blue-green keeled scales. Alongside these though were some others which were new to us, the more subtly marked Western Side-blotched Lizard, Uta stansburiana ssp. elegans.

As we continued on with our walk, we had several stately fly-pasts from Brown Pelicans and then suddenly we were in a butterfly hot spot. A flowering shrub attracted a Camberwell Beauty, known in the US as a Mourning Cloak, Nymphalis antiopa. Sadly, it was a little tattered around the edges, particularly on the hindwings, but since this is an elusive butterfly in Europe I was happy to record its presence.

Then mere moments later, a pristine Anise Swallowtail, Papilio zelicaon, fluttered round our feet and settled on the Hottentot Fig leaves beside the path. Not only was it exceedingly fresh and utterly beautiful, it was offering us the best views imaginable.

Before we moved on, we also saw a slightly scruffy Lesser Goldfinch. This was another new bird species to me and one I was not expecting to find in such a downtown or coastal location.
Our last stop was over the road at the Fisherman’s Village, mostly for a refreshment on a warm day. We also found wildlife here though (after all, it’s almost everywhere if you look!) with more Pelicans and Sea Lions, Western Gulls, and no fewer than 3 species of Heron all vying for space along the waterfront. There were a couple of Snowy Egrets looking elegant in their breeding finery, some Black-crowned Night Herons including a couple of streaky brown juveniles masquerading as a different species, but the most numerous were Great Blue Herons, Ardea herodias, and some of these were at eye level on moored boats allowing for more unusual portrait-style shots.

That was all we had time for before the wedding though – and what a wedding – a friend of mine for quarter of a century getting married on Santa Monica Beach is definitely something to remember and cherish for a long time! Party over though, we were kindly driven back towards the airport by some friends and picked up a hire car for the desert part of our adventure. We had a few more days to squeeze in some more exploring and we headed inland to our next base near Palm Springs.
Being with my husband for the trip meant that not every outing was purely for wildlife but even a visit to the Palm Springs Air Museum (a great day out for anyone interested in aviation or military history, with knowledgeable and engaging staff and volunteers) had a lot to offer. Not only were there some great aircraft, some of which had distinctly wild sounding names like the Nighthawk which looked like something straight out of a movie, but in the outdoor exhibit I came across a real surprise. Beneath one of the planes was a Desert Iguana, Dipsosaurus dorsalis. I’d have liked a closer shot or better background but the location made it impossible so I made the best of the situation.

While we were in the area, we also opted to take some short hikes. This was mostly because of the heat, the thermometer was hitting 45˚c easily most days so we were getting out early to explore while it was cooler and limiting our excursions and our energy expenditure so as not to risk heat stroke. One of the trails we explored though was the lovely Andreas Canyon. This is only just over a mile loop and going early meant that we had it almost entirely to ourselves. The canyon winds alongside a perennial creek and provides a literal oasis from the surrounding desert environment. This means that all manner of creatures visit to drink or bathe, or live in its vicinity. The first half of the trail was in the shade of the cliffs at the water’s edge, and there were a few small birds like Blue-gray Gnatcatcher and Verdin flitting amongst the rocks and bushes here while Ravens called from the clifftops above us. Against the water itself though I came across a number of dragonflies including striking orange Flame Skimmers. The ones that caught my eye though were a little more like the Demoiselles we have at home, a large damselfly size and metallic hues, shimmering in the light. These, I later learnt, were American Rubyspots, Hetaerina americana, and I had fun composing several different shots although the following was my favourite.

The second half of the walk was above the canyon in the drier, cactus-studded desert edge as the path wound back downhill towards the stand of California Fan Palms around the car park. There were far fewer signs of life up here as the day warmed up but back near the car, we glimpsed several lizards darting for cover and an Abert’s Towhee, larger relatives of Sparrows with reddish brown plumage, hopping around the picnic bench.
On another day, we headed further afield, not only to make the most of our time in the area and visit a different habitat, but also in the vague hope that gaining some altitude might bring a bit of respite from the relentless heat of the desert. We drove into the San Bernardino National Forest and, stopping at one of several viewpoints, were rewarded with a few wildflowers that had in turn attracted a variety of pollinators. The first to catch my eye was the California Clearwing, Hemaris thetis, which is similar to the related Narrow-bordered Bee Hawkmoth which we encounter in the UK and across Europe. This was nectaring on a pretty blue-flowered plant called Giant Woollystar, Eriastrum densifolium.

Mere feet away, several butterflies fluttered among some Buckwheat plants. There were American Lady, Coronis Fritillary and Gray Buckeye, Junonia grisea, the latter being the only one to hang around long enough to have a photo taken.

Driving on a short way, we stopped for longer at Lake Fulmor. Pulling into the carpark we spotted a stunning California Sister, one of the larger butterflies with largely black wings, a white stripe down the middle of each and a vivid orange wingtip to each forewing. It fluttered at high speed overhead and into a nearby tree. Our attention was soon diverted though, first by a Turkey Vulture soaring high above and then by a pair of Acorn Woodpeckers chasing one another round a tree trunk.
We were keen to explore further and set out. The lake was close to the edge of the road and we were soon walking the path along the shore where dragonflies darted among the reeds. There were several species we hadn’t seen before including Blue Dasher and a couple of damselflies too, Tule Bluet and Pacific Forktail. I was pleased though to get an image of the Flame Skimmer, Libellula saturata, which we had seen earlier in the week.

A short way further on we had a wonderful close encounter with a White-breasted Nuthatch, Sitta carolinensis, which went about its way seemingly oblivious to our presence. We watched quietly as it foraged around our heads in the branches of a tree which overhung the path we were on, smiles on our faces the entire time.

Further on, the path opened out a little and among the flowers that lined the banks, we found a few more butterflies. The first was the Marine Blue, Leptotes marina, looking similar to its European relative, the Long-tailed Blue.

Another beautiful species that we came across was the Mylitta Crescent, Phyciodes mylitta. This particular individual seemed especially small but perhaps I was just expecting larger species after the one from earlier in the day.

By now we had reached the head of the small lake and although there were a few butterflies coming down to the damp sand at the waters edge here, there was no way of reaching them so we decided to follow the trail that wound back the way we had come but lead away from the water and up a slight hill. This worked in our favour as we passed some different flora which was appealing to a different range of butterflies. The first flowers we came across were the last few on the stem and belonged to the Western Wallflower, also known as the Sanddune Wallflower or Prairie Rocket, Erysimum capitatum. This native member of the cabbage family was being enjoyed by a beautiful yellow butterfly called Harford’s Sulphur, Colias harfordii, a relative of the Clouded Yellow which we occasionally find as a migrant to British shores but is common across Europe.

Beyond, we found a lovely patch of vibrant red San Gabriel Beardtongue, Penstemon labrosus, which was fleetingly visited by a hummingbird as we approached. We were delighted at the brief view we had, although I couldn’t be certain I thought it might have been an Anna’s Hummingbird which we had seen several of on our previous trip. I had wanted to see more but wasn’t sure whether they would be here or not.
Our attention was quickly taken by another bird, or more specifically, a pair. In a nearby tree, I saw some movement and it transpired to be a female Western Bluebird, Sialia mexicana, feeding what appeared to be a recently fledged juvenile.

A little further on, we found a familiar bird but one that I can’t resist photographing. Maybe it’s just me, but I love a Jay and the Steller’s Jay, Cyanocitta stelleri, has to be one of the finest members of the family. This fine individual was unconcerned by us as we neared the picnic area and gladly waited while I took its portrait.

Our final encounter came at the picnic site where a trusting female Red-winged Blackbird, Agelaius phoeniceus, hopped around the tables in search of forgotten crumbs. While not as showy as their male counterparts, I find these to be attractive birds and was happy to photograph this one.

The next morning, rather than drive out further afield, we opted to walk out directly from our AirBnB to explore a local trail along the side of a dried creek bed. Owing to the aridness of the area we weren’t expecting to see as many invertebrates, although there were a couple of flighty dragonflies around. We did see some birds though. Many were distant such as American Kestrel, Mourning Dove and Mockingbird, but we enjoyed a Loggerhead Shrike, Lanius ludovicianus, which was on the top of a dead tree beside the path. We had had wonderful views of this species on our last trip and it was nice to encounter this species again albeit from a different angle.

One of the species we were most keen to see while we were here though was a larger bird. A ground-dwelling member of the cuckoo family, the Greater Roadrunner, Geococcyx californianus, is probably best known from the Looney Tunes cartoons but, unlike their ‘meep-meep’-ing counterparts, the real ones are streaky brown birds which feed on a variety of prey and tend to clatter their bills together more often than calling. I was therefore delighted when we came across one which, with patience, came quite close to us.

Later in the day, we decided to make an evening excursion into Joshua Tree National Park and the true desert. We had read that it was an excellent spot for stargazing due to low light pollution levels and we were more than happy to explore this. We set off in the early evening and arrived just in time for the sunset. I had no tripod with me as with a wedding to pack for as well, luggage space had been limited, but I used a couple of rocks to make a solid base and made the best of the situation to get a classic silhouette shot of an iconic Joshua Tree, Yucca brevifolia, for which the park is named.

We settled in to watch the stars emerge in the clear desert sky and were amazed when, a short while later instead of stars we found ourselves witnessing a SpaceX rocket launch. It was in fact the second we had seen in our time there, the first being in daylight from Santa Monica, but this was so much more dramatic in the dark. I have no images but my husband captured an extraordinary shot on his phone, which is in our album of the trip. Needless to say, although we very much enjoyed our dark sky experience, this was an unexpected talking point for the evening. It was incredible to watch and yet at the same time, we debated the ethics of the venture when climate change is affecting our world so much and we still have so much to discover on earth. Nevertheless, our journey took us through the park and out of the other entrance before we headed for our accommodation and this allowed us to experience even more. We saw a number of Black-tailed Jackrabbits, Lepus californicus, relatives of our hares along with a grazing Mule Deer which we later learnt are rare in the park, presumably preferring more lush landscapes to the harsh desert environment here. We also saw a huge number of small rodents, although in the headlights of the car and with their bursts of speed, it was impossible to identify them.
The next day, we decided to go back into the park in daylight and explore further. This would mean venturing out in the heat of the day, but we felt it would be worth it so we made sure we were prepared. Entering near Cottonwood Springs, we found ourselves in the Colorado Desert which is a distinct habitat from the Mojave Desert in the western part of the park. Here, the lower elevation meant a vegetation more like that in the valley with species like Cholla cactus, grasses and desert saltbush. We saw Gambel’s Quail in the undergrowth and despite only seeing our first Roadrunner the previous day, several more lived up to their name and ran across the road in front of us (thankfully at a safe distance each time!).
We stopped at Arch Rock and made the short hike out to see the natural rock formation. Impressive though it was, I have to admit, I was more interested in the charming White-tailed Antelope Squirrels, Ammospermophilus leucurus, which we met along the way, skittering between patches of shade.

Our next stop was at Barker Dam and this proved more fruitful still despite only a short section of trail being open. The first thing we noticed was a Catclaw Acacia, Senegalia greggii, in bloom and being visited by tens of butterflies, all the same. These, we would later find out, were Ceraunus Blues, Hemiargus ceraunus.

Nearby, more of the same trees were being visited by Verdins, Auriparus flaviceps, a yellow-headed relative of the European Penduline Tit. We had seen these birds for the first time earlier in our trip but this was our first experience of them close at hand. It seemed there was a floral oasis here in addition to the dam itself and these birds and insects were benefiting from it in the otherwise inhospitably dry desert.

Further on, I found one of the most intriguing insects of the whole trip though and enjoyed the setting in which I found it, on a sunlit Buckwheat stem against a shaded rock beneath a shrub giving a naturally dark background and adding a bit of drama to the image. This is the weird and wonderful looking, locally endemic California Thread-legged Katydid, Arethaea brevicauda.

Before we left, we also saw some very attractive Black-throated Sparrows. Unfortunately, they were not in the mood for photos but sometimes nature is just nice to watch!
Our final stop meant a short back-track since we had over shot the turning. We headed to Keys View ostensibly for the vista over the valley below which was pretty spectacular. We also saw a Turkey Vulture and a pair of Red-tailed Hawks here but the species that excited me the most here was another butterfly, and a tiny one at that. The Western Pygmy Blue, Brephidium exilis, is the smallest species in North America and a similar size to the smallest in Europe, the Grass Jewel.

This had been our final full day in the desert and the following morning we would leave to make the return journey to LA before flying home. Despite the heat and the harshness of the desert environment, if you stopped to look there was no lack of wildlife to find. The thermometer as we left for the final time though touched 50˚c and we were most grateful of our air-conditioning in the car. Perhaps if we ever make it back to that part of the world again, we won’t go in the middle of summer!

